You will need five good tools: sharp by-pass pruners, by-pass loppers, small pruning saw, elbow length (gauntlet) leather or rubber/plastic impregnated gloves, and safety goggles.
Over-pruning roses in spring tends to weaken the plant. Never prune away more than one-third of the live growth.
On all roses, remove diseased, dead and broken canes. A cane that has blackened from winterkill, or suffered physical damage, should be shortened to an inch below the offending section.
Where possible, cut on a 45 degree angle.
Once-blooming (as opposed to recurrent-blooming) roses require no further pruning in the spring. These are primarily antique roses and old-fashioned ramblers. Do whatever additional pruning necessary after blooming in early July.
Reduce hybrid tea roses to 4-5 vigorous canes not shorter than 30 inches. Grandifloras should be reduced to 5-6 canes not shorter than 36 inches. Reduce floribundas to 7 to 8 canes not shorter than 24 inches. In general, try to achieve a vase-shaped plant for most roses in these categories.
Especially on hybrid teas and grandifloras, cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud. Cut so the 45 degree angle allows water to drain away from, rather than into the bud.
Mini roses, shrub roses, rugosa roses and repeat blooming antique roses just need a haircut, trimming them to size.
Treat English roses and romantica roses as grandifloras.
Trim modern climbing roses and pillar roses to shape. Aged canes should be removed, as should those that grow away from the support or criss-cross awkwardly. Massive rejuvenation pruning is best postponed until early July and done, if at all, every 3 to 5 years.
To prevent cane borer, put a dab of Nubark™ Rose Stick on the cut wound of any cut branch greater than pencil thickness.
To discourage diseases and insects, rake up and discard all pruned material, including leaves, with the trash.
